We all had worries about the Lycian Way, well Marie and I did, Darcy not so much. Marie was worried that it would be so hot that she wouldn't cope with it, and I (Jillian)just didn't know how I'd cope with the terrain, having had problems with my feet this year. Yes the heat has been an issue, but we've all coped well, especially with our guide Vedat's experience, knowing how water helps, and how to use it - even extending to pouring it straight from the well over our heads! Plus keeping our hats wet.
We started by having the practice day that was mentioned in the last post. Yesterday, 20th September, was our first day on the Lycian Way itself, and we walked from the beginning of the Way, near Oluvic, to Faralya, where we stayed in a delightful pension, the Montenegro Motel, where the last post was sent from. Even though it's kilometers away from anywhere there was still wifi connection, as there has been in just about every place we've stayed in Turkey.
We were all pleased with the way that the first day went, or should I say we were pleased with how we coped with the walking and track conditions. Although the track was mostly obvious, and reasonably wide, some of it was unforgivingly slanted uphill, which I struggled with, or over fairly rough terrain downhill, which neither Darcy or Marie enjoy very much. And did I say hot? But the views were wonderful, looking from way up high out to the Mediterranean, and inland to some sheer, steep and magnificent cliffs. Apparently we didn't disgrace ourselves as Vedat was more than happy with our achievements and times, and immediately started talking about today's walk.
On our itinerary it said today was shorter. What it lacked to say was that it was mostly uphill. Gruntingly so. I'm happy to report that my walking pole skills are improving and that I didn't find the uphills as challenging as yesterday. Just hot. Marie hurt her back yesterday, taking photos of ants shifting pieces of onion that had fallen from Darcy's sandwich. I think it's been better today, with the help of Panafen. Darcy's knee is not behaving as well as he would like, and he's saying he's heading for the Voltaren tonight. As for me, my feet gave a few twinges yesterday, but nothing of any concern. However, life would definitely improve for me if the wasps and bees would leave me alone. I've had 3 stings so far! Fortunately no serious reactions, just a few verbal ones! I must say that I'm getting fairly edgy about them though.
The views have been magnificent. A very old gnarly olive tree caught my eye; probably a good 700 years old. We've all been intrigued by the deep wells and springs. Although some springs have dried up, and we're having to be very careful to carry enough water, the springs and wells that are still useable have clear cold water, that is sweet, and most welcome, for drinking and drenching.
Marie here: I've been worried about the heat, right from our first day in Istanbul, when I was overcome with heat exhaustion for a day. I've become acclimatized to the heat now though, and have found the heat on the Lycian Way no problem at all. A bonus has been the springs and a couple of wells, where we just pulled up a pail of water. Vedat has great delight in pouring water over our heads, and filling our hats. Each morning before we've starting our walking, Vedat has laid a table with items of food for us to make our lunches. At times I don't think that we need to make any lunch, as there is an abundance of grapes, carob pods to chew (beautiful chocolate flavoured), the odd fig or two, and i'm sure that Vedat could produce even more out of the wild to eat.
A highlight yesterday was when we visited an elderly Turkish gentleman, who invited us in for traditional cay (pronounced chai, traditional Turkish tea). Darcy and I love it, and we're training the non-tea-drinking Jillian, who is now enjoying the occasional cay. I too have enjoyed the dramatic cliffs, wild looking forests and terrain, all being quite different from New Zealand. We have had stunning panoramic views of the Mediterranean, from great heights.
We're now staying in a 200 year old house, with original beamed ceilings, and I'm sleeping in one of the storage rooms underneath the house. I have to duck when I go through the doorway, as they're so low. There's the 3 of us staying, plus Vedat, plus a friend of Vedat's,called Naim, staying in the house. Naim is checking out this part of the Lycian Way, as he is planning to walk the whole 500km in November! Oh yes! There is a welcome swimming pool here, as we are still experiencing temperatures in the 30s.
Jillian again: We've finished Day 3, which means we've completed our section of the Lycian Way! Woohoo - we've done it. I'm writing this the day after (23rd September), in our hotel in Akyaka, near to Marmaris, from where we'll be catching the ferry to Rhodes tomorrow, which means that our 6 weeks in Turkey is up. I'm sad at the thought of leaving, almost as though our time may be up but I'm far from ready to move on. Turkey has caught me by surprise; I had no idea that I'd love it so much. Vedat visited us this morning and was asking if the kayaking and walking we've done with him met our expectations. We all responded that it far exceeded our expectations, from the beauty of Lake Koycegiz and the Dalyan Delta, to the azure beauty of the Mediterranean coast. And then there's the dramatic and stunning countryside we've been walking and climbing through. We've been three fortunate people to have experienced such a wonderful time.
That's it for now - our thoughts are very much with the shaken family and friends in Christchurch - hugs and love.
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